We've been following along as our friend Ryan Hoegner's EK hatchback transforms from a stock DX to a K-powered street terror. We started the build by swapping a RealTime Race-built K20A in place of the stock D16Y7. Then, we moved on to some stopping power.
This month, we're going to finish what we started in the first installment by cleaning things up a bit. Karcepts is a new company that builds parts to help K swappers do things more professionally. They also offer a radiator relocation kit, which makes cutting and welding radiator tabs a thing of the past.
But Karcepts' first, and most popular, product is a shifter mounting kit for K-swapped EG, EK and DC models. The shifter kit sits within the exhaust tunnel to make a lower mounting point for the DC5's cable shifting mechanism. This enables the DC5 shifter to sit within a stock center console. Harvey Janisse from Holeshot Racing is back again to install the Karcepts shifter kit and make the EK project's interior a little easier on the eyes.
First, Harvey cuts out the supplied pattern, then lines up the two bolt holes in the pattern with those in the chassis. | 
Harvey tells us that the best way to make sure the pattern sits flush with the car is to tuck it into the carpet. If the car doesn't have carpeting, tape will work just fine. |
Making sure the pattern is straight and flush with the floor of the car, Harvey traces out the shape of the necessary hole with a Sharpie marker. | 
The large portions of the hole are cut out with a Sawzall. Make sure the car is well ventilated before cutting. Metal shavings are not good for breathing. |
After the hole is cut into its approximate shape using the Sawzall, Harvey returns with a cutoff wheel on a die grinder to finish it up. | 
This is what the hole will look like when it is done. |
The two forward holes need to be drilled. A hand drill with the shortest possible overall length is needed for this step. Even with the small drill, we had to angle the cut a little bit to clear the dash. | 
The Karcepts kit installation requires some material to be removed from the side of the shifter itself. Basically, you need to take off enough meat to get the shifter to fit through the hole. |
Both sides of the shifter have some excess that needs to be taken off. Harvey uses the die grinder and cutoff wheel again for this step. | 
The steel inserts that come stock in the JDM shifter needs to be removed. In the case of a USDM shifter, the inserts are rubber and they usually stay in the car when the shifter gets pulled out. The USDM shifter will use some spacers that we did not use in the JDM one. |
Harvey bolts the shifter to the Karcepts plate while it is off the car. | 
At this point, Harvey test fits the shifter and kit together to make sure the holes were cut correctly into the chassis. Ours came out right on the first try. |
The rear mounting plate is installed into the existing holes toward the rear of the new hole. These are the same holes we used to line up the pattern to trace it earlier except from under the car. | 
The supplied silicone sealant is applied to the rear mounting plate. After the shifter is installed, it'll be impossible to get to the rear plate to seal it. |
Harvey sets the shift cables into their places on the shifter. | 
The C-clip locking the cable to the shifter is gently tapped in with a hammer. |
Harvey bolts the cable retainer onto the main shifter plate. The cables are routed through the two grooves on the main plate and then sandwiched in using the retainer plate. | 
Harvey bolts the main plate to the rear mounting plate under the car, and then screws in the two front bolts from inside the car. |
Now that the shifter is in its final place, the shift cables can be installed. | 
After both cables are installed, the shifter is run through the gears a few times to make sure it isn't getting caught up anywhere. |
Harvey finishes up by sealing the rest of the kit with the supplied silicone. This caulk shields the driver and passengers from noise and exhaust heat. | 
Remember what the interior of this car used to look like? |
Here's the EK interior after the K swap using the Karcepts shifter. Nobody will suspect a thing. | |