These are the mount replacements and brackets included in the Hasport kit. Not pictured but also included is the cable-to-hydraulic clutch conversion kit. | 
The entire right-side bracket must be removed for this swap (the battery tray and airbox, too). The easiest way is to drill out the spot welds on the bracket, but you'll a need a long 5/16 drill bit. |
Same goes for the rear mount, though it unbolts easily. On the left side, the factory bracket stays so just remove the mount with the original engine. | 
With the original engine, tranny, axles, radiator and front crossmember out of the CRX, bolt the Hasport right-side bracket into the holes previously unused for other brackets (like the battery tray). Then, trace around the bracket and the holes. |
Here's what it should look like afterwards. You need to grind away all the paint at the edges of the Hasport bracket in order to get a good weld when the bracket goes in for the last time. The bolts are for locating the bracket only! | 
The next step is to notch some metal around the right-side headlight. Because the K runs the opposite direction as a B or D engine, the pulleys are on the right side. The idler pulley and belt assembly need some breathing room. |
The CRX's brake proportioning valve is mounted on the right-side shock tower. We need it on the firewall, out of the way of the K engine. Unmount it and get ready to move it to the firewall by removing the charcoal canister and fuel filter. | 
Mounted just above where the engine harness enters the cabin, the proportioning valve looks factory. It only takes a little bending of the lines but be sure to go slow to avoid kinking the metal brake lines. |
With the proportioning valve relocated, move the fuel filter mount up so it's not so close to the header. The area just below the VIN works great. | 
With the center console completely removed, drill a hole at least 1.5 inches in diameter for the shifter cables to pass through the firewall. Use a bit long enough to penetrate the two-layer firewall. |
The K-series transmission cables pop out nicely just left of center and above the rear crossmember. | 
With the engine bay prep done, it's time to lower the car down onto the K. Notice the engine harness and Hasport adaptors are already in place. Doing this swap without a lift is like threading a sewing needle with yarn. |
The new rear bracket should be bolted to the crossmember. Have the right side and rear mounts ready to go. The left-side bracket is stock, but leave the mount until the engine is in place. | 
The right side is easiest. Lower the car until you can get it fairly secure. |
On the left side, bolt the Hasport bracket to the transmission. Next, fasten the mount to the bracket with the two bolts first, then shoot for the single bolt through the chassis bracket. When it's all together, it should look as pictured. Leave everything only finger-tightened so you have some movement to help get the rear mount in. | 
The rear mount has an upper bolt (shown) and a lower bolt. Get the upper bolt in first, then raise the car to thread in the lower bolt. Then torque everything down. |
The problem with any K block is the Civic Si idler pulley. The hood won't clear it and you'll have to cut it. | 
Or maybe not. Hasport's alternator relocation kit moves the alternator down to the A/C compressor area and includes a smaller idler pulley where the power steering pump (or stock idler pulley on a Civic Si) would be. Without it, the Civic Si idler pulley will not clear the hood. |